Apr 30th, 2009 by Isa2
This letter just came in, and I thought I’d like to share it with you all as well as my response.
Hi,
I am working with on developing garments with African refugee woman in New Zealand. I am interested in applying traditional fabric printing methods. Are there any that are reasonably simple and don’t need a lot of special equipment that you could recommend?
Thanks, Kareen
Hi Kareen,
Thanks for your letter and for undertaking your project. When I first started in the African fabric business I was financially able to travel to Africa each year and the only fabric I purchased for resale was the lovely hand-decorated bound resist damask–simply glorious tie & dye designs of all sorts and varieties and colors. Tie & dye is a simple process that is indigenous to many areas of the world and is suitable to designers at all skill levels. I’m certain it would be a good place for you to start with your group of women.
The images above show two examples of very different tie & dye techniques. More designs can be seen at the Indigo post. The first is done by folding and binding and then dipping the edges, the second by scrunching the cloth lightly, tying it off, and then pouring, spattering or dipping the cloth into the various colors of dye. They take some practice to develop skill & dexterity, but what doesn’t?
One need only have cloth, string, and dye to produce the designs as well as kettles or barrels in which to do the actual dyeing and rinsing and clothes lines over which to dry the fabrics. Adequate water for rinsing is also necessary in order to wash out the excess dye after the fabrics are dipped.
Basically, one binds up the fabric in one manner or another and immerses it in the dye. The areas that are bound will resist the dye while the other parts of the cloth accept the color. I think that 100% cotton fabric in white or another pale color is the best to use, but I’ve even seen printed fabrics over-dyed in bound resist designs that have been tremendously exciting. While professional grade aniline dyes are the best, packaged dyes from the supermarket can also be used.
There are many wonderful books that describe the variety of binding techniques and they are probably available at arts & crafts stores near to you. Ask for a good general text of tie & dye designs. If you cannot find any there may I recommend Dharma Trading Company in California, which has all manner of good books and other dye supplies. Their staff is very well informed about the books and the products you will need. http://www.dharmatrading.com/
Good Luck Kareen, and please, send us some digital photos of you and your group as well as some of the fabrics, once you get started start dyeing and we’ll be happy to share them around cyberspace.
Isa2
